ust wanted to send a quick message - don't know if we will have much chance to send mail until we get to Katmandu in a week or so (but you never know - e-mail seems to pop up everywhere!).
We have been in Beijing now for three days - will fly out tomorrow for Qingdao, just in time for the beer festival. Our tour book says it is the biggest beer garden outside of Munich - we will let you know!
I don't know how much drinking Eric and I will do, however. We have had mild diarreha since the Yangzhee river a week ago, and it built up to being really sick when we arrived in Beijing. We are taking it easy right now (expensive hotel, lots of rest), and so are both feeling better. As well, the temperature has subsided (down to 28C), so that helps a lot.
Before Beijing we were in Xian, the main capital of China for thousands of years. There was lots of history, nice museums, and of course the Terra Cotta Warriors. It was all great to see, and a good education on Chinese history (though we had our doubts about some of the claims that were made).
The one amazing thing about Xian was the traffic. The streets were
constantly congested, and there was a perpetual game of chicken between cars, pedestrian, and bicycles. We would see taxis barrelling down the street at people who wouldn't even quicken their pace. I can't tell you how many times I screamed from the back seat, certain that we had mowed someone over. Sometimes traffic jams were created just from people and bicycles being mixed up with the cars. We would see mothers with their children standing between fast moving lanes of cars, waiting for a clearing to walk across the next lane, and then wait there for the next lane to clear.
Beijing is proving to be milder. We are staying at a hotel near Tian an men Square (we can see it from our hotel window). I must say that service isnt' good here - our hotel staff is rude and unhelpful, especially considering we are paying a lot to stay there. However, traffic is more orderly (though still crazy compared to home), and the streets are very wide.
Construction is going on 24 hours a day in preparation for the 50th
anniversary of the revolution on October 1st. We met a Chinese student who said it is the biggest building project in all of Asia right now. He said we are lucky we weren't here two weeks ago, because Tian an men square was closed because it was being reconstructed. Apparently everythng is new - even the sidewalks! Someone we met said he was traveling with a Chinese person who said that all of the tall buildings weren't here 5 years ago - it is as if the city has gone up overnight.
Things seem to be changing fast. The student we met (who helped us find the Internet) said that 10 years ago, only 10% of houses in Beijing had telephones - now most of them have phones. He said that in China, a year ago there where 1 million cell phones - now they have 20 million. He said that Internet access, like what we have been using, was illegal a year ago. Everyone we have met that had been here a long time ago says they can't believe how much it has changed. I am sure we will say the same some day.
Eric and I have definitely taken a step up, and are spending more money for comfort. Sure, we have been sick. But why should we pay 10 cents for a bus and get lost, when a cab cost $3? It is definitely true that having a little money makes everything so smoother. I wouldn't say we are traveleing in luxury, but we are definitely a big step up from the backpackers. We met some people who thought it was strange that we would book a soft sleeper
berth on the train (1st class) rather than go by hard sleeper, which is half the price. I don't know, but having air conditioning, a soft blanket, and fluffy pillows and more room is worth an extra $20, thank you. When the month is over, we probably will have spent an additional $100 - $200 - definitely worth it.
WE can't believe our month in China is almost over. It seemed at times like it would never end - now it seems like it went by in a blink. Hope we get a chance to write soon!
Sue and Eric
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